William Fèvre | Burgundy, France
Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Domaine 2014
A subtle touch of wood sets off the restrained and all but mute nose where about the only identifiable aromas are green fruit and algae so be sure to decant this if you’re going to try a bottle young. Otherwise there is very fine richness to the big-bodied and overtly powerful flavors that deliver stunningly good length and depth. This is mildly rustic but has so many other things going for it that it’s worth considering anyway.